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Beauty and Natural Perfumes: The Lore of Patchouli Oil

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The distinctive Patchouli essential oil - it's an aroma people seem to love or hate - very few are indifferent. This aromatic oil has a reputation as the scent of the Hippy generation, though it's medicinal and aromatic use dates back thousands of years. Patchouli oil has a well-deserved reputation in modern aromatherapy, with it's deep, musky odor, balancing energy, and mystical properties. It is an exotic aroma that can forever imprint the olfactory senses.

The 'Pogostemon cablin' species is a perennial herb native to Southeast Asia, growing wild in Sumatra and Java at higher elevations, though it's cultivation is common in the lower tropical jungles of India and Indonesia. For essential oil extraction, the leaves are harvested three times per year, with the best quality oil derived from leaves picked in the wetter seasons. The leaves are hand picked, baled, and allowed to partially dry and ferment before the oil is extracted via steam distillation. The fermentation process softens the plant's cell walls, easing the extraction of the oil, allowing a smoother oil to be produced at lower temperatures and pressures.

The relative ease of it's cultivation, and it's high oil yield keeps the price of true Patchouli essential oils relatively low. It is important to note however, Patchouli is one of the few essential oils that improve with age (others being Frankincense, Cedarwood, Sandalwood and Vetiver), and that a properly aged Patchouli oil is much more desirable than a fresh one. Over time, the oil looses a harshness that many find distasteful, and adds a sweet top note. As it ages, the oil turns from light yellow to a deep amber, with the aroma becoming smoother and more rich. Principal constituents of the oil include: Patchoulol (25-35%), Alpha-Bulnesene (12-20%), Alpha-Guaiene + Seychellene (15-25%), and Alpha-Patchoulene (5-9%).

The aroma of Patchouli was pervasive in cloth and clothing exported from India in the 19th century, as it was found effective at preventing insects from devouring natural fabrics. The scent became an indicator of true Oriental cloth, so much so that European clothing makers were obliged to douse their products with Patchouli to ensure acceptance in the marketplace. Patchouli oil has been used for centuries in traditional medicines in Asia, indicated for skin conditions. Patchouli can help with dermatitis, eczema, acne, dry chapped skin, and other irritating conditions, along with dandruff and oily scalp conditions. It may help in healing wounds and reducing the appearance of scars, acting as a stimulant for skin rejuvenation. Further, Patchouli is considered an excellent remedy for insect and snake bites, and when used as a fumigant, it may prevent the spread of infectious fever and support the immune system.

Patchouli oil is considered an excellent base note and fixative in perfumery, being a component in many famous perfumes. As a fixative, it slows the evaporation of other, more volatile oils so that their aroma may be released over a longer period of time. A little patchouli can be used in natural perfume blends, adding that special deep and earthy aroma. It mixes well with many essential oils, with almost all common oils being mentioned across a variety of sources - these include Vetiver, Rosemary, Sandalwood, Frankincense, Bergamot, Cedarwood, Myrrh, Jasmine, Rose, Citrus oils, Clary Sage, Lemongrass, Geranium and Ginger.

In aromatherapy, Patchouli is considered a great balancer, relaxing yet stimulating, particularly relevant for conditions of weak immunity where overwork and anxiety have left one feeling 'spent'. Patchouli oil may also relieve the strain of those with excessive mental activity who may feel out of touch with their sensuality. It has been considered a aphrodisiac, and can be helpful worn as a perfume for those with impotence, frigidity, and sexual anxiety. Patchouli combines this aphrodisiac effect with an antidepressant one, uplifting the mind with it's sweet, warm, earthy qualities.

To further add to it's lore, Patchouli is thought to be a bringer of prosperity and abundance to the lives of those exposed to it's aroma. The oil is used in ceremonies and rituals by those in need of monetary or other type of infusion. A simple method to employ Patchouli's power is to close the eyes and visualize the abundance actually coming into one's environment while inhaling the oil's aroma.

Creating your own aromatherapy and perfumery blends with Patchouli can be exceptionally rewarding - for a few simple blends, try: 3 parts Patchouli and 1 part Rosemary oil. This is a wonderfully uplifting blend combining the deep earthiness of Patchouli with the invigorating, herbaceous aroma of Rosemary, and can certainly be worn as a perfume or used in a diffuser. When the going gets tedious, try brightening with 3 parts Coriander, 2 parts Patchouli and 1 part Bergamot. This may uplift the spirits and remind one of the joy to be found in life. For the sensually insecure, try 1 part Geranium, 1 part Patchouli and 1 part Bergamot. A beautiful yet simple blend for getting comfortable in one's own body.

It may take a little effort finding that perfectly distilled and aged Patchouli oil, but many who claim to have a dislike for Patchouli's unique aroma may truly enjoy it when finally getting to sample an exquisite variety.

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More information is available on aromatherapy essential oils at The Ananda Apothecary.

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