Search:

Interest In A Lot Of Save Money!

It was a dark and stormy night - and I couldn't see hardly anything in front of me while driving down the highway despite the streetlights and my headlights being on high beam. An investigation later revealed that my headlight lenses were quite yellow and dull, cutting down on their effectiveness. Fortunately, I didn't have to buy expensive replacements.

On older cars, headlights were all one piece, essentially big light bulbs. The lenses were clear class, and were replaced as the headlight was swapped out for a new one. These days, for more details visit to www.positive-idea.com the lights are typically lamps that are installed inside a plastic lens assembly. You may change the lamp inside your headlight, but the lens the light has to shine through stays the same.

I drive a 1994 Dodge Caravan, a minivan that has held up very well with just a little maintenance and a few repairs, but having a car for so long has its challenges. Plastics age over time and can change color or get scratched. My headlight lenses had developed what looked like a yellow film. This discoloration was the result of years of being abraded by dust and road grit and bombarded with ultraviolet radiation from the sun. This surface damage diffused the light from my headlights making them dim.

While still a good vehicle, I had little interest in spending a lot of money on new lenses, but neither did I want to have an accident because I could not see an obstacle in the road. The solution was to restore the lenses by polishing away the damaged surface using abrasives and polish.

Most auto parts stores will sell a kit with everything you need. I bought one for around 15 dollars. It contained four sheets of wet-dry sandpaper, a soft flannel cloth, some plastic polish and good instructions on how to proceed. Wet/dry paper is specially made to allow you to sand or polish surfaces while they are wet. As you sand, for more details visit to www.make-ezee-money.com microscopic particles are ground loose from the surface and this can start to clog the spaces between the abrasive particles on the sandpaper. Keeping the surface wet allows the particles to float and wash away.

In this case, the grit of the sandpaper was very high, beginning with 1000 grit on up to 2500 grit. Furniture makers don't usually use sandpaper much higher than 320 grit, so you can imagine just how fine this paper is. My lenses were only moderately damaged, so I started with the 2000 grit and began to wet-sand the lens, methodically sanding and wetting the plastic. I did not have to remove the lens. If your sandpaper starts to feel slippery, that means you need to rinse the paper and probably the surface, too. Don't be stingy with the water. Once I had thoroughly sanded the lens with 2000 grit, I used the 2500. After rinsing the lenses clean and drying them, I applied the plastic polish which completed the job, buffing the surface to factory-new. I spent about 40 minutes on the job, and the next morning driving in to work before sunrise, I could really tell the difference.

Niche Article Directory: http://www.thatsmyniche.com

www.101-save-money.com www.82-money-pocket.com

Please Rate this Article

Not yet Rated